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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.